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Welcome to UK Sunday 16 August 2012
STAIN REMOVAL
Here are some common stains, their nature and the ideal reagent to use to remove the stain.
A = absorbed, B = built up, C = compound.
STAIN TYPE TREATMENT
Ballpoint Ink C Methylated spirit
Beer A Hydrogen peroxide, dilute if necessary to avoid bleaching
Blood C Soak in washing powder
Chocolate C Remove excess chocolate and treat any remaining stains with hydrogen peroxide
Coffee A Soak in washing powder
Chewing Gum B Hold an ice cube against the gum until it can be crumbled away
Candle Wax B Scrape off excess and iron between two sheets of white blotting paper,
treat with methylated spirit
Eggs C Soak in washing powder
Grass C Methylated spirit
Gravy C Soak in washing powder
Adam A700 Jet Charter
Grease or Oil C Methylated spirit
Ink A A cold water diluted solution of washing up liquid or similar liquid
Rust C Small stains – lemon juice
Heavy stains – proprietary rust remover if suitable for material
Lipstick C Washing up liquid or methylated spirit
Mildew C Hydrogen peroxide
Milk A Washing up liquid or washing powder Adam Aircraft Charter
Nail Varnish C Acetone (except on triacetates) or nail varnish remover:
hand wash immediately before machine washing
Paint C Emulsion – cold water or Polyclens, hand wash immediately before machine washing
Gloss or undercoat - Polyclens hand wash immediately before machine washing
Perspiration A Ammonia followed by hydrogen peroxide if any residual stains
Rubber C Methylated spirit followed by dry cleaning
Scorch Marks C Rub in glycerine and soak for 10-15 mins,
then wash followed by diluted hydrogen peroxide
Soot C Washing up liquid
Tar C Polyclens or washing up liquid wash then treat with hydrogen peroxide
Hand wash immediately before machine washing
Tea A Soak in washing powder rub in a little glycerine leave for 10-15 minutes
before re-washing
Wine A Soak in washing up liquid. If coloured treat with hydrogen peroxide
Warning: Keep all chemicals out of reach of children.
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Dealing with stains
There are three types of stains:
1 Absorbed stains – caused by liquids, which penetrate the garment easily, e.g. tea, coffee, wine, beer, etc.
2 Built up stains – stay on the surface and do not flow into the fibres.
3 Compound stains – are absorbed into the fabric and leave residue on the surface, e.g. blood and certain
food stains.
Basic rules
1 Remove all stains as soon as possible after they occur and try to stop the stain setting in by soaking in
cold water, NEVER hot water.
2 Blot off what you can with a clean cloth.
3 Identify the stain and fabric.
4 Try the simplest remedy first.
5 Test the stain removal agent on an unseen part of the garment.
6 Local treatment is best.
Soaking can play a valuable part in the removal of many common stains.
Heavy duty washing products usually contain a bleaching ingredient which removes stains such as tea,
coffee and fruit juice by oxidation; some also contain enzymes which break down protein stains such as
blood, gravy, egg yoke and milk. At lower temperatures, enzymes work by tackling protein stains, which
could be fixed by the use of hot water. Long soaking times allow the dirt to settle back into the fabric. Two
half hour soaks are better than one soak lasting an hour. Soaking works best at 40oC to 50oC.
When soaking
1 Always check each individual garment’s Clothing Care Label.
2 Make sure the stained article is suitable for soaking. Whites and fast coloureds can usually be soaked.
3 NEVER soak silk, wool, leather, garments with metal fasteners or any article with a flame resistant finish.
4 NEVER soak articles of doubtful colour fastness (see section on testing for colour fastness).
5 Use a container such as a sink or plastic bowl (but NOT an enamel bath) large enough to hold garments
freely and fill it with warm water (40oC) where there are blood, gravy, egg or milk stains. Use hand hot
water (50oC) for other soaking.
6 If using a powder, ensure that it is fully dissolved before putting articles in. After soaking, rinse the articles
before continuing with the soaking. NOTE: Although modern detergents can deal with most household
stains, once a stain has set it may be necessary to wash it two or three times.
7 Greasy or oily collar and cuff marks can be pre-treated with neat washing liquid. Work the liquid into the
affected area, and then continue with a normal wash.
Testing for colour fastness
Always test a fabric for colour fastness before trying to remove a stain.
Remember too, that some dyes only stay fast for a limited number of washes. It is therefore well worthwhile
to re-test a coloured fabric even if you have previously found it to be colour-fast, particularly if you are
planning to use a prolonged contact time with the stain removal agent or washing solution.
1 Apply the stain removal solution to an inconspicuous part of the garment (e.g. inside the hem).
2 Place the treated area between two pieces of white cloth and press with a warm iron.
3 Examine the pieces of white cloth. If no colour has been transferred, the dye is fast and you can proceed.
4 If colour has been transferred, the dye is not fast; advice should be sought from a dry cleaner.
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